Growing Medicinal Herbs

It starts with Intention: The most important thing that you have control of is your intention. This is at the very essence of what you are doing. Everything around you picks up your intention be it beneficial or malevolent and this effects your environment. Plants will pick up your intentions and react to them.

Most herbs are easy to grow. If you want them to thrive, you do need to be sure they have the appropriate soil, light, temperature, water and amendments such as compost and  minerals.

The soil, the air, the weather, other plants around it, will affect the vitality, the flavor, and the strength of your herbs.

Soil: A well-drained loamy soil is the type of soil we want for the majority of our herbs. If you don’t have such a soil, you can modify it with amendments. Nature is a process of recycling. Nutrients continually get recycled. In our gardens we take nutrients out in the form of food and medicine. If we do not replenish them with amendments our soil gets depleted. We need to feed our soil which in turn feeds the plants.

The best thing we can do to nurture our soil is to amend it with compost.

Compost: Your compost is best made with things from your own farm or yard. I will use mine as an example. The main part of my compost is bedding from my goats. This bedding has their urine and manure in it. I also use chicken manure from my chickens that is mixed with sawdust from the bottom of their coop. I don’t get a lot of it as they are free range and only in their coop at night. Other additions are leaves from the many trees in my yard, garden and yard debris from weeding, kitchen food debris, entrails or other body parts from animals that have died or have been butchered. I layer these items. I do not dump huge amounts of leaves on the pile. I collect them over a period of months and layer them between weeds and animal bedding. I also make sure the compost stays moist enough but not so wet that the nitrogen is running out of the pile. This means I may need to use overhead watering or a cover on the pile depending on the weather.

If you do not have enough compost, you can spray compost tea around to try and help your plants. Spray it directly on the plants as well as on the ground around the plants. The tea needs to be made aerobically. I suggest going to Elaine Ingham’s site for information on compost tea. http://www.sweet-soil.com/work-we-do/courses/elaine-ingham/

Fertilizer: My compost is largely my fertilizer. If more is needed, you can use such things as watered down urine (Yes, you can use urine, but be careful what you use it on, how often and when. Also make sure it is used fresh and watered down.), fish meal or other sources of natural nitrogen.

Minerals:

Find out if any minerals are missing in your soil. The best thing to do is test your soil for mineral content.

Kelp is a general all purpose source of minerals, especially microminerals. Be careful not to overuse it as there is a bit of sodium in it. It is too expensive for most folks to overuse.

Calcium is often added to soil in the Willamette valley here as we have a lot of rain. The rain leaches the soil of calcium. Although as your soil is nurtured and if you do not till, you will have less minerals leached out. 

Different types of calcium:
       Lime: Calcium carbonate  - will raise pH of soil making    it more basic

Gypsum: Calcium and sulfur – will not alter pH of soil

Dolomite: Calcium and magnesium -  will raise pH of soil

Oyster shell: A slow acting source of lime/calcium

Rock phosphate – Source of phosphorus. Leaves often get purplish coloration if there is not enough phosphorus.

Potassium -  Wood ash from your wood stove is a cheap source. Alfalfa is another source. Growing plants need adequate supplies of potassium to enable enzyme activity, photosynthesis and water movement. Potassium helps to build plants with solid stems and stalks and good bud formation. It also promotes disease resistance and protects growing plants from effects of the cold.

Know the Type of Plant You Are Growing

Annual: 1 season. Usually propagated by seed. They tend to do better in rich soil. Examples would be calendula, oats, shepherd’s purse, blessed thistle, lobelia, chamomile, opium poppy, milk thistle, spilanthes, fenugreek, viola, dill, basil, chervil, cilantro, summer savory, borage, nasturtium

Biennial: 2 seasons to set seed then, usually, they die. Usually propagated by seed. Has a tap root to store energy for the 2^nd season, sometimes roots are used at the end of the first season. Sometimes aeial parts are used the first year (sometimes second). Sometimes seed is used second year. Examples would be burdock, parsley, celery, angelica, caraway, cumin, mullein, garlic

Perennial:  Plant lives many seasons, propagation by seed, root division, and cuttings. Plants die to ground in winter if it is cold enough and emerge again in spring. Examples would be yarrow, marshmallow, ladies mantle, yerba mansa,  lovage, aralia, chives, Greek oregano, lemon balm, uva ursi,  absinthe, astragalus, mints, wild yam, echinacea tarragon, California poppy…

Small woody shrubs: Long lived perennials. Wood helps the plants survival. Propagate by cuttings, layering, seed. Examples would be rosemary, sage, lavender, roses , hyssop, winter savory, thyme, chaste tree.

Large woody shrubs: Long lived perennials. Wood helps the plants survival. Propagate by cuttings, layering, seed, usually not by division. Examples would be siberian ginseng, cramp bark, elderberry…

Trees: Long lived perennials. Propagate by seed or cuttings usually. Examples would be hawthorn, linden, cascara…

Herbs that do well in shade/partial shade: Most herbs need sun or partial sun. Herbs that will be okay in shade as long as it is not continual are peppermint, lemon balms, angelica, lovage, valerian, sweet cicely, siberian ginseng. Look to understory shrubs and trees to see which will like shade. For instance goldenseal. ginseng and black cohosh grow beneath deciduous trees and need about 80% shade to do their best. Other plants that like shade are devil’s club, Spikenard, blue cohosh…

Herbs that like wet feet: Most herbs like their feet to dry out. Continual moisture usually produces rusts and rots. So be careful if you have a wet area. Only put bog and marsh loving plants in these areas. Drosera, pitcher plant, skunk cabbage are plants that like wetness. Devil’s club does well in partial wetness such as the base of a moist ravine or along a creek.

Top Pick List - These herbs are fairly easy to grow in the Willamette Valley & herbs I use a lot.

My pick of medicinal herbs for you to grow in the Willamette Valley. I picked these for their ease of growing here as well as for how useful they are as a medicinal herb.

Calendula: Annual, 12" apart, 24" high, rich soil, well drained, full sun/partial shade, sow seeds direct in the soil as soon as ground can be worked, in greenhouse 23 days from seed to transplant. Flowers are collected for medicine.

Echinacea: Perrenial, 12” on center, about three-four feet high, sow seed in fall, winter or very early spring , likes lime, likes full sun, voles like to eat the roots. The roots, flowers and seed are collected for medicine. Some folks use the leaves, but I only find them useful fresh for wasp stings.

Marshmallow: Perennial, 15" space on center, deep fertile sandy loam is best, full sun, good drainage/dry, 400#/acre, harvest in fall or winter when mucilage is high, higher in dry soil. The flowers, roots and leaves are collected for medicine. Especially the flowers and roots.

Comfrey: Perennial, start from piece of root, get Siberian if you don’t want it to seed,  will grow anywhere in any kind of condition. But best in loamy well fed soil. The roots and aerial parts are used as medicine – mostly externally.

Garlic: loamy well fed soil, need soil to be loose enough to grow good bulbs, need to add compost,  needs steady water but not water logged. Stop watering before harvest to dry it out. Bulbs are used as medicine.

Yarrow: Perrenial,  5# seed/acre - 6-12" spacing, any soil but better medicine in poor soil, pH 4.5-7, full sun. Aerial parts – flowers and leaves used as medicine.

Nettle: Perennial, rhizomes, so start from digging up a clump or seed,  will grow in a matt as has rhizomes, likes to be near running water, likes nitrogen and moisture, best dappled shade but okay with full sun. Aerial parts prior to flowering and the seed as well as the root are used as medicine.

Saint John’s Wort: Perennial, only grow in groups of other plants,  start from seed, likes slightly acid soil, full sun, sow seed on sand/soil mix douse w H2O occasionally. Top 4-6 inches of flower buds and flowers used as medicine.

Valerian: Perennial, start from seed, 4’ tall, 6 “ apart or more, moist, rich loam soil, ph of 6-7.  Full sun to partial shade, 1 ton per acre. Roots used as medicine

Blueberry or Huckleberry: start from seed or cutting, likes acidic soil, shallow roots so needs plenty of water and use compost and mulch of sawdust each year, full sun to partial shade. Some huckleberries prefer shade. Leaves and fruit used as medicine.

Oregon grape: woody perennial, sow seed in clay and keep moist – geminates in 2^nd or third year. Better to dig up small plants that are growing off a mother plant. Will grow in full sun or partial shade. Root bark and stem bark used as medicine.

Herb Class April 1st, 2012

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Please realize this information is for educational purposes only. Some of the plants discussed below are toxic and should not be used by anyone but a professional trained to do such. Do not ingest these herbs. These notes are posted for 2012 herb class. The class is not posted in its entirety. These are brief notes to help remind my class of what we covered.
 
I am late getting these notes and photos up from the April herb class, but here it is. The weather was nasty this day  and the creek was a mess from the storn, so we did not get to see as much as I had wished. I don’t have everything here, but have tried to include most of what we saw and discussed. You can find dosage information in my book. I have not listed it here due to lack of time.

First we started our discussion on Oregon grape. We discussed it last time but I forgot to mention that the older the plants are the more berberine they contain and the berberine content seems to be higher from plants collected at lower altitudes. You also find the highest concentration in the root bark although the stem bark is also used.

Then we went over the different categories of laxatives used in herbal medicine and talked about the herbs in each category. Next time we will look at the Cascara by the creek. No one wanted to be outside any longer so we went inside seeking shelter from the rain and cold before finishing our herb walk.

Overview form the morning discussion on Laxatives.

Bulking laxatives: Act via fiber such as oat bran and psyllium husks.

Stool Moisteners: Act to moisten the stool such as fresh mucilaginous or rehydrated mucilaginous herbs such as marshmallow or slippery elm bark, oily seeds such as flax (also a bulking laxative), cholagogue herbs such as dandelion or oregon grape and don’t forget water.

Stimulating Laxatives: These are the purgative herbs which increase bowel activity when there is insufficient peristalsis. These include cascara, aloe, and senna as examples.

Sedating Laxatives: Antispasmodics used when there is constipation due to a spasmodic bowel. Seen with alternating diarrhea and constipation accompanied by pain and chronic spasms.

Echinacea Processing

We pressed out the Echinacea and will filer it during our next class. We also filtered out the popular bud tincture we made last time.

 The Herb Walk

When it warmed up outside, we went out for a little walk to collect horseradish root, and nettle. We also looked at Red current, Wasabi, Uva ursi, Rosemary, Dandelion, Pulsatilla, Bloodroot, and a variety of other herbs poking their heads out of the ground.

Stinging Nettles - Urtica spp.

My nettles are behind time here at this altitude, but Cari brought some to make up for it. We made a lovely pesto with them. I have already went over information on nettles and the pesto on an earlier blog. You can find it here.

Wasabi - Wasabi Japonica

 The taste of wasabi comes from glucosinolates. Glucosinolates can also be found in horseradish, turnips, pak-choi, rutabaga, mustard, cabbage, brussel sprouts, brocolli, caulifolower, kale, kohlrabi, watercress, rapeseed and radish.

When we eat wasabi or another gulcosinolate containing plant, the act of chewing it alters the glucosinolate. We activate an enzyme in wasabi that changes glucosinolate to isothiocyanate or thiocyanates or other compounds. If the wasabi has been dried the enzymes gets destroyed in the drying process unless it undergoes freeze drying.

For you science buffs, glucosinolates are hydrolyzed by either the enzyme glucosinolase or thioglucosidase into glucose, HSO4- , and one of the following aglycone derivatives: isothiocynates, thiocyanates, nitriles, or related compounds such as oxazolidine-2-thiones. The enzymes for hydrolysis are produced by plants and by rumen organisms. They react with the glucosinolates when plant tissue is crushed, for example by mastication (chewing), or when the plant is consumed into the rumen of a ruminant animal such as a goat, cow or bison.

Isothiocyanates have been found in research to be anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antifungal, anticarcinogenic, antioxidant, protective of kidney neprhons, and protective of the cardiovascular system.

Isothiocyanates are irritating to mucous membranes and not readily consumed in sufficient quantities to be toxic. However, if they are consumed as glucosinolates and then hydrolyzed to isothiocyanates via mastication or in the gut, they can have powerful antithyroid effects and interfere with the synthesis of necessary thyroid hormones.

In animal studies they have identified that the animals can tolerate 10% of their diet being rapeseed (also contains glucosinolates) before they have symptoms of poisoning from the glucosinolates. Glucosinolates are thioethers. These compounds often contribute a bitter, "hot" taste to condiments (mustard, horseradish) and may exhibit goitrogenic or antithyroid activity.

Uva ursi - Arctostaphylos uva ursi

This plant is also known as Kinnikinnick  which was the Algonquian word for “mixture”. Uva ursi was mixed with tobacco and smocked. Some people still smoke it today.  Some how the name Kinnikinnick began being used for Uva ursi itself. Ursi is most known for its use in urinary tract infections. The leaves contain arbutin, an antiseptic that is hydrolyzed by gut bacteria to hydroquinone.  In alkaline urine, hydroquinone is an effective antimicrobial agent and uva ursi itself tends to alkalinize the urine. Arbutin itself also contributes to the antiseptic activity in the urinary tract. Consumption of this herb may cause a green tinge in the urine.

This plant is usually used short term as larger doses or use long term is contraindicated. It should not be used in pregnancy because of the oxytocic properties. Toxic doses can cause nausea, vomiting, tinnitus, difficult breathing, and really excessive doses can cause convulsions and loss of consciousness. Arbutin inhibits the degradation of insulin and may be problematic for those with hypoglycemia.

Dandelion - Taraxacum officinalis

Dandelion

Dandelion is a mild laxative, diuretic (especially the leaf) coloagogue, choleretic, blood thinner, antioxidant and blood thinner. It has been used in arthritis, gout,  edema, gastric headaches and a variety of liver ailments. The whole plant, especially the root, is beneficial to the liver but is slow in producing the desired action. Autumn roots are roasted and used as a coffee substitute. The high inulin content, especially in the autumn makes dandelion root a good food source for beneficial gut bacteria.

Red current - Ribes rubrum

Red Current

Red Current

 All the Currants are an excellent source of vitamins and antioxidants. Red Currants have mildly laxative, astringent (leaves especially), appetite increasing, diuretic and digestive properties. It can calm stomach upsets. Tea made from dried leaves can be helpful in relieving the symptoms of gout and rheumatism. The leaves can also be useful in treatment of slow healing wounds, and as a gargle in cases of mouth infections.

Rosemary - Rosmarinus officinalis

Rosemary was beginning to bud out and although damaged by the storm, was still beautiful. This common cooking herb has a long history of medicinal use. It has been used as a nervine, astringent, carminative, cholagogue, choleretic, hepatoprotective, antispasmodic, diuretic etc....

Rosemary

Its strong antioxidant effect has gained the interest of food processors in the past who have tried to use it as a natural preservative but they decided they did not want all their food tasting like rosemary so it did not catch on in a big way.  

Rosemary has always been said to help with memory and recently research investigated its use in this way. They found that indeed it does seem to help with cognitive abilities but smaller doses were more effective than larger doses.

Bloodroot - Sanguinaria canadensis

Bloodroot

 This is a low-dose herb. This means it is toxic and you should not use it unless you are a professional trained to do such. It is used by health care professionals to support people in cancer therapy.

Bloodroot is in the poppy family. The part of the plant used is the root. It is very bitter and acrid tasting. Not a plant you consume as a food for sure.

Bloodroot

Bloodroot is an antispasmodic, expectorant and diaphoretic as well as diuretic and choleretic. However, due to its possible toxicity other herbs get used in its place generally. It does get used sometimes in acute or subacute respiratory tract illness by practitioners. You will see it used in bronchitis, laryngitis, nasal catarrh and after pneumonia where debility persists. The most common traditional use has been for internal  use in cancer formulas and even more so, externally in cancer salves. It is of course illegal for anyone but an oncologist to treat someone for cancer currently. However, there are people still making salves and herbal formulas for this use but they are not allowed to treat cancer with them.

Studies show the constituent, sanguinarine, helps reduce and limit the deposition of dental plaque.. You will find it in some toothpastes as an antiplaque agent.

 Contraindications: It is contraindicated in pregnancy due to the emmenagogue effect and uterine stimulating activity of the alkaloids, berberine, protopine and chelerythrine, as reported in animal studies. Over-dosage can cause nausea and vomiting, hepatitis, vertigo, visual disturbances and prostration. Do not use this herb unless under the guidance of a trained health care practitioner. The fresh root is more dangerous than the dry root.  Professionals do not use more than 1-2 drops every 2-4 hours in acute phase, then 1-2 drops per day after the acute phase.

Pulsatilla - Anemone pulsatilla

Pulsatilla

This is another low-dose herb. This means you should not use it unless you are a trained professional. It gets used in very small doses.

Pulsatilla is in the Buttercup family. The whole plant, especially the root is used. It has an acrid and bitter taste to it.

Pulsatilla is an anti-inflammatory, sedative and analgesic. Used for people who have nervous conditions like fearfulness, general nervousness, dejection, emotional lability, and weep easily. Often the person feels exhausted and perceives that they are not in control. They may have heart palpitations and insomnia. The individual is gentle, with a yielding disposition, and has changeable symptoms and moods. It is used for amenorrhea following wet cold feet, endometriosis, ovarian neuralgia ovarian congestion and inflammation, with dull, nagging, aching, tearing pains. It is useful with unbearable headaches prior to menses.

Contraindications: An overdose can cause toxicity with sensations of burning in the mouth and throat, abdominal pain, nausea, vomiting, bloody diarrhea, slowed pulse and breathing, hypo-thermia, sensory and motor depression, stupor, coma and convulsions. Because it is a uterine stimulant, it is contraindicated in pregnancy.

Artichoke - Cynara scolymus

Artichoke

This is a common garden plant with a lot of healthy kick to it. It is a strong antioxidant used to protect the liver  from damage and to regenerate damaged liver tissue. It is a cholagogue and a choleretic. Research shows it lowers cholesterol and lipids, decreases atherosclerosis and acts to thin the blood. It is also helpful in preventing gall stones, and irritable bowel. The artichoke flavonoids appear useful in supporting cardiovascular health by supporting endothelial integrity via increasing endothelial nitric oxide production. The part commonly used as a medicine is the leafy parts early in the spring when still young and fresh.


Lily of the Valley - Convallaria majalis

Lily of the Valley

We also looked examined Lilly of the Valley which is used in congestive heart failure (Another botanical that only trained folks should use.) Some students dug up and took some of this wonderful smelling plant home with them.

Marshmallow Flowers As a Medicine

I have used the root of marshmallow (Althaea officinalis) for about 25 years as a medicine. A few years ago I started experimenting with the flowers which have a slight mucilaginous characteristic to them. They are not super mucilaginous like the root is but still they seemed promising. I made a guess that they would have some anti-inflammatory and vulnerary (wound healing) ability and tried using them on wounds which proved to be beneficial.

 
I was happy to see this recent research article from Lebonon that examined a tea of marshmallow flower in relation to its effect on lipemia, gastric ulcers, inflammation and platelet aggregation(platelets are involved in blood clotting). The abstract can be viewed here:

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21281251

What the research found was the following: Marshmallow flowers increase serum HDL (what is called the good cholesterol), they have significant anti-inflammatory acitivity (acute and chronic inflammation) and decrease the growth of gastric ulcers. Additionally there was inhibition of platelet aggregation.

They also examined their effect on liver enzymes to see if the flowers would harm the liver in any way. None was seen.

For information on marshmallow root go to this link: 

http://www.herbaltransitions.com/materiamedica/Althea.htm

Making Herbal Tea

Herbal teas are inexpensive, easy to make and they impose a ceremonial process during their preparation as well as a rest time while drinking them.

Tools To Make Teas

If you have something to cook water in and a canning jar, you have all the tools you need. Some other useful items are a Kettle, Teapot, French Press, and Mug. Be sure your tools are glass, stainless steel or enamel. You don’t want to use a container that might react with the herbs. 

Safety
Only make teas with herbs that are safe to drink.

Types of Tea Preparations

Teas are divided into two basic types of tea preparations. The infusion and decoction. Depending on what you want to extract from the herb and how dense the herb is will depend on which type of preparation you use.

When To Choose An Infusion 

Infusions are used for extraction of labile constituents such as vitamins, enzymes and volatile oils. They are also used for delicate and less dense parts of the plant such as flowers and leaves. Some seeds are also infused as well as roots with volatile oils such as elecampane or valerian.

When To Choose A Decoction

Decoctions are used for plant constituents that require more time and heat for extraction, such as mineral salts, bitter constituents and hard, dense plant parts such as barks, roots, and some seeds.

Infusions

How to Make An Infusion

An infusion is a gentle method to extract constituents from the herb. When making an infusion, the plant material is cut small, torn up or bruised to release its essence. The idea is to get as many parts of the plant in contact with the water as possible. If you have bought "cut & sift" herb from someone else, it is probably already cut up for use in an infusion.

Example of timing and how it changes the ultimate preparation

If you infuse an herb like chamomile the essential oil will be released quickly and taste and smell divine if drank within a few minutes. However, if you want the bitter constituents in chamomile which often we do if using it medicinally, you want to infuse it longer. The longer you infuse it the more bitter it will get.

Directions for one cup of infusion

Three recommended methods:

(a)     Add one cup of boiling water to one heaping tablespoon of dry herb or three heaping tablespoons of fresh herb in an air-tight container like a canning jar. Let it steep for 10-25 minutes.

(b)   Bring one cup of water to boil in a stainless steel or glass kettle. Remove the kettle from the burner and add one heaping tablespoon of the dry herb or three heaping tablespoons of fresh herb to the water. Cover the kettle with a tight fitting lid.  Steep for 10-25 minutes. Remove the lid, strain and drink the liquid. 

(c)  Put one heaping tablespoon of dry herb or three heaping tablespoons of fresh herb in a pint canning jar. Pour one cup of boiling water over the herb and put the lid on the canning jar. Let it sit overnight and drink the next morning. This method is often used for extracting minerals. When I am attempting to extract minerals I put extra herb in my jar. I often put a handful in and fill the quart jar with water. Most mineral rich herbs are food herbs such as oats and drinking strong teas is okay. If you use herbs in large amounts, make sure they are safe herbs to consume in quantities.
 
(d)  Put one heaping tablespoon of dry herb or three heaping   tablespoons of fresh herb in a pint canning jar. Pour one cup of room temp or cool water over the herb and put the lid on the canning jar. Let it sit overnight and drink the next morning. This will make a very mild infusion and picks up small amounts of volatile oils and energetic essences of the plant. Often this method is used for full moon infusions.

These infusions can be consumed hot or cold, depending on the specific usage. Large quantities can be made and stored in the refrigerator. Do not store tea for longer than 3 days because it may grow mold.

Solar Infusion

This type of infusion relies on the sun to provide heat to draw out constituents.  You put your herb into a canning jar. Then add clean spring water, well water or filtered water using the same amounts as listed above. (1 T per cup water if dry or 3 T per cup water if fresh.) Simply multiple the herb and water depending on how much tea you want to end up with.  You put the herb in the jar. Pour cold water over the herb, tighten the lid on the jar and put the jar in the direct sun. I often make sun tea in gallon canning jars when I have friends visit.

Lunar Infusion

Lunar infusions are wonderful for certain herbs. I place the herb in the jar and pour cold rather than hot water over the herb and place it under the moon at night. Usually I do this when the moon is full. It is especially nice for herbs with volatile oils. I do notice quite a difference when it is hot at night as compared to when it cools down. The heat of course does much of the extraction. When cool out at night, I get just the bare essence of the plant. I have to be sure to retrieve it before the sun is up. It is lovely and somewhat magical with certain plants. I suggest you try this with something like peppermint. Although I have used them medicinally for people, I usually don’t as I generally want the full range of constituents I can get from a hot extraction when I am using a tea medicinally.

Decoctions

How to Make A Decoction

In a kettle, bring one cup of water and one tablespoon of dry herb or three heaping tablespoons of fresh herb to a boil. Cover the kettle with a tight fitting lid, and simmer the ingredients for 15 - 25 minutes. Remove the kettle from the burner and steep ten minutes. Strain and drink.

Examples of when to choose an infusion or decoction

 If you are trying to extract minerals from an herb like nettles you can either use a hot water infusion overnight or you can decoct it for 25 minutes. They will both give you a similar amount of minerals. (I have made both up and sent it to a lab for testing.The decoction gave a tad bit more but not enough to matter.) However, the overnight infused one in my opinion usually tastes better. I am more likely to drink something that tastes good, so guess which one I will make. Usually, leafy herbs like nettles are not decocted and the only time I would decoct them is if I want to extract something like minerals and don't have the time for a 12 hour infusion.

Roots are generally decocted as they are dense and hard. However, if you are decocting a root with volatile oils such as valerian or elecampane you will want to infuse the root so you do not loose the essential oils. To make sure you extract it completely, you can cut up or pulverize the root into small pieces so the water can get into more parts of the root for a better extraction. You don't want a powder, you just want it mashed up or cut small.

Drinking the Tea

Ahhhh, now for the relaxing part.

The amount of tea you ingest will depend on if you are ingesting it for pleasure,  or health. It will also make a difference if using it for health reasons,  why you are using it. It is impossible to give a specific amount to drink, but since I know you want a guideline, I would tell you that  ½ - 1 cup three to five times a day will usually be the range. Some herbs need to be taken in very small amounts to work. For instance if you are using a bitter to stimulate digestion, you only need a few sips of a strong tea for it to help. Acute conditions usually require more of a tea and it is usually taken more often than chronic conditions. Some herbs should only be taken in small amounts as they are can be irritating if taken in large amounts of too often. It is important to always know what you are ingesting before ingesting it.

More On Teas In The Next Blog

There is so much to tell you about teas. What do you do when you want to prepare a formula of 6 different herbs and some need to be decocted and some infused?  How do you make bad tasting teas taste better? What are the advantages and disadvantages of herbal teas. This and more will be awaiting us in a soon to come blog. If you have a question about teas, let me know so you can see the answer in the next tea blog. In fact, if you have any questions about herbs, please speak up so you can get an answer in a future herb blog.

More Herbal Videos Available

I uploaded another herbal video to YouTube a few days ago. It was uploaded in two parts as listed below. I hope you enjoy them and if you watch them, don't forget to "like" them.

Edible & Medicinal Herbs 1 - Part 1 - In this video I take you for a walk where you learn how to identify and use Colts foot, Oregon grape, Stinging nettles, False solomons seal, Wild ginger, Heal all, Wild ginger, Wild strawberry, Trillium, Hazel nut tree, Plantain, Candy stripe, and Bunch berry, and Horsetail as food and or medicine.  

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2WexBzw7paw&feature=related

Edible & Medicinal Herbs 1 - Part 2 - In this video I take you for a walk where you learn how to identify and use  Saint John's Wort, Balsamroot, Yarrow, Chickweed, English daisy, Ball Head Cluster Lilly, and Iris as food and medicine. Additionally she explains some wildcrafting and collection techniques and you learn how to make Saint John's Wort oil.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fMEbGyd5YD0&feature=related

The Edible & Medicinal Herbs II - Part 1 and 2 was made available a few weeks back and you will find links to them from Edible & Medicinal Herbs 1 - Part 2 on YouTube at the end of that video if you missed these before.